Marrakech 

Eat

Jemaa el Fnaa, Medina 

The big square in the center of Marrakech is loud and vibrant late into the night. Avoid the snake charmers and overpriced henna and head straight for the food stalls. First, try babbouche which is snails slow cooked in a herb broth and eaten with a toothpick while you perch on a flimsy bar stool. Second, head to one of the grilled meat vendors. Make sure you pick one that serves Merguez sausages, a beef-based variety heavy on spice that comes with bread and a salsa-like tomato sauce. Third, sip a punchy cup of spiced tea from one of the dedicated stalls that look out over the chaos of the square. 

La Patisserie des Princes, South of Jemaa el-Fnaa

Boxes of Moroccan sweets – small sugary pastries perfect with a coffee – sold by the weight and wrapped nicely with a bow. Good for a gift; best for late night snacking in one’s room. 

Patisserie Amandine, Gueliz

French baking in a laid back café that also serves brunch and avocado toast. The nice crockery and white-shirted staff are a welcome respite from the hustle and bustle of the Medina. 

Amal Women’s Training Center, Gueliz

A non-profit center dedicated to empowering disadvantaged women through training in cooking and hospitality. Lunch is served in a leafy garden under orange trees and among sun-dazed kittens. Expect well-executed classics such as tagine alongside more adventurous dishes: mint, pea and zucchini gazpacho.  

La Famille, Douar Graoua

An oasis of calm down a narrow passage. Enjoy fresh juices and a light lunch on communal tables before perusing the small boutique store attached. People who lunch here are beautiful in a French, nonchalant sort of way. 

Roti d’Or, Douar Graoua

The place for when you’re tired and spent and think another tagine might push you over the edge. Take a seat, order a wrap and chips and soak up this small café on a vibrant back alley. 

Le Catanzaro, Gueliz 

Home comfort Italian, plain and simple. This isn’t Bocco di Lupo in London or Pizzeria da Remo in Rome. But there is no shame in a family-run ristorante with décor reminiscent of Goodfellas serving Italian staples to Moroccan families. 

Drink 

Juice, Everywhere

Fresh-squeezed pomegranate juice can be bought from carts pulled by donkeys all throughout the Medina. In Jemma el Fnaa competing sellers at bigger stalls will yell at you from afar to purchase their orange or mixed fruits juice over competitors’. I prefer the humble pomegranate stall. 

Mint tea, Everywhere

You will hear it called Berber whisky, referring to the indigenous people of Morocco who have been fuelled by the tea for centuries. Whether you are trekking in the mountains or seeking a mid-afternoon, post-tagine pick me up in the Medina, fresh mint tea sweetened to a point of saturation will keep you going until dinner. 

Atay Cafe, Medina

In the town of endless terrasse panoramiques, Atay Café’s is up there at the top. Across the way from shopping destination Max and Jan, you can climb four stories for an unforgettable view of the surrounding Medina and mountains. They even provide floppy sun hats for when you need a break from the sun. 

Do 

Bahia Palace, Djane Ben Chegra 

A sprawling 19th century palace in the South of the Medina. Go early as it is a top spot on guided tours and you want to be able to see the lush gardens and intricate painted ceilings with limited distraction.  

El Badii Palace, Touareg

A 16th century palace a short walk from Bahia. The vast courtyard within its towering walls feature sunken orange groves, reflecting pools and a small museum that houses a masterpiece of Islamic woodwork. A  of storks – yes I looked that one up – have made the surrounding walls their homes and they soar overhead as you saunter in the sun. You can climb up one corner of the palace to look across Marrakech which, in the winter, is set against a backdrop of the snowy Atlas Mountains 

Saadian Tombs, Moulay Lyazid

Burial place of the founder of the Saadian Dynasty and a good way to round of a trio of sites including the Bahia and Badii palaces. The sepulchres were discovered in 1917 and painstakingly restored to their current state of opulent beauty. Zeitoun Café across the road has a good terrace for a mint tea afterwards. 

Le Jardin Majorelle and Musée Yves Saint Laurent, Rouidate

Two essential destinations on any Marrakech trip, but best done at the right time: early when the doors open or mid-morning when the first wave of tourists has ebbed. If you’re in it solely for the Instagram – which you shouldn’t be – mid-afternoon is best as the gardens and the iconic YSL sign in the museum will be in full light. Even if you aren’t a dedicated follower of fashion, the digestible permanent exhibit in the museum and the short documentary film in the amphitheatre will have you respecting the impact of Yves Saint Laurent on modern fashion. Make sure to admire the museum building as much as its content and have a stop at the café, Le Studio. The chairs are millennial yellow, the coffee is strong and the waiters are straight out of The Grand Budapest Hotel. 

Musée MACMA, Gueliz

A private collection housing modern Moroccan art and other cultural artefacts on a quiet street. Near to Amal Women’s Centre, Patisserie Amandine and Le Cantazaro for food before or after. 

Mason de la Photographie de Marrakech, Medina

A permanent and rotating collection of photographs documenting Moroccan life and the history of the country. Housed in a peaceful building with a courtyard it can get stuffy in the height of summer, but the shaded terrace café offers a chance to cool down and digest the pictures. 

The Atlas Mountains, Imlil

Time permitting, take a day trip or an overnight visit to Imlil, the gateway to the Atlas Mountains. An hour and a half outside Marrakech, accommodation is cheap and you can use the village as a base to explore beautiful valleys filled with juniper trees, roaming goats and dramatic views. The luxury option would be to stay in the Kasbah du Toubkal, perched high above the village and with its own hammam. Riad Atlas Toubkal however won’t set you back much and the rooms with balconies have equally satisfying views. 

Mount Toubkal, Atlas Mountains

The adventurous can sign up to climb Mt. Toubkal, North Africa’s highest mountain (4,167 metres). A summit can be achieved in two days one night. The standard tours pick you up from Marrakech early in the morning and you hike the same day to the refuge at the mountain’s base. The night is spent in a shared dormitory and sleep is attempted despite the altitude and excitement. You rise early (4AM in the winter, earlier in the summer) and hike the five to six hour round trip to the summit before descending the same time again through the valleys back to Imlil. I have done this twice: the summer was tough and the winter even tougher. But watching the sun rise from the Sahara and illuminate pink the Atlas Mountains will become a life-long memory.

33 Rue Majorelle, Rouidate

Moroccan shopping is not just leather sandals and painted bowls from the depths of the souk. There are myriad designers, artists and artisans producing the best of the countries staples: scents, clothing, ceramics, glassware and cosmetics. 33 Rue Majorelle, on the same road as Le Jardin Majorelle and Musée Yves Saint Laurent is the place to find this modern, artisanal work. Clothes and jewellery are the bulk of items here but the concept store stocks everything from post cards to soap to metal cactus sculptures. 

Max and Jan, Medina

The website is a bit obnoxious: “an ethnic and chic fashion brand that combines Moroccan heritage and craftsmanship with international fashion and flair”. They also have an organic restaurant on the roof called SOUL FOOD which may or may not be something to shout about. That said, the wares and clothes they sell are undoubtedly cool and they have a very good selection of green Moroccan glassware. The modern space they have created in the ancient medina should be taken as a case study in successful design. 

Next Time

Plus61, Gueliz

Dar el Bacha, Medina

Anima Garden, Ourika

Menara Gardens, Hivernage 

The Women’s Museum, Medina

Rome

Eat

Pizzeria Da Remo, Testaccio

The pizzeria I fell in love with when I first visited Rome in 2015. It sits on the corner of the main square in Testaccio (the double c is hard) and serves thin crust pizzas to locals and tourists. As one should at any pizzeria, begin with fried starters (suppli, baccala, fiore di zucca). I would then recommend the Remo or simply the Prosciutto pizza.  

Pizzeria Ai Marmi, Trastevere

Maybe Pizzeri Da Remo is closed. Walk back along the river to Trastevere and get a discus of carbs and cheese with a cold Italian beer at Ai Marmi. Expect lots of tourists, but the restaurant is too noisy to hear them

Bonci Pizzarium, Prati

The pizzeria version of Andy Warhol's Factory. Here Gabriele Bonci reinvented the Roman pizza, invested in the grains and cereals that define a good dough and has continually innovated with new combinations of flavours. It’s al taglio, meaning by the slice, so order up and stand at one of the high tables outside. Order adventurously and be rewarded. This part of the neighbourhood is not a destination in itself but is near to the Vatican and St. Peter’s Basilica.  

 

Forno Campo de’Fiori, Centro Storico 

A bakery whose pizza bianca has been well documented in Nancy Silverton’s episode of Chef’s Table. There is something imperceptibly different to the dough here and it has kept me going back again and again to eat a slice folded in half while perched on a trickling fountain in the square. 

Pastificio GuerraCentro Storico

A small pasta maker near the Spanish steps that every day, at 12AM, opens its doors and serves two kinds of pasta in takeaway boxes for five Euros. Eat huddled in the store or stroll elsewhere and find a perch. 

 

Fatamorgana, Trastevere and Monti

At any gelateria I first try the pistachio. If they can get that right I trust them to wow me with a more adventurous experience. The tzatziki flavour at Fatamorgana was one of them.  

OtalegTrastevere

Gelato spelled backwards.  Smart right? Less adventurous than Fatamorgana but a better spot if you are looking for the classic flavours executed to a high standard. 

 

La Tavernaccia da BrunoTrastevere 

A high-quality trattoria not far along the river from Trastevere serving Italian and Roman staples. Their Rigatoni all’Amatriciana is the best I have ever eaten. 

 

Da Cesare al Casaletto, Gianicolense 

A 10 minute taxi from Trastevere or a slightly longer tram and you will be in the garden of the trattoria Da Cesare. Booking recommended and also to take a walk under the towering trees at the nearby Villa Doria Pamphili as the sun sets. You will feel miles away from the chaos contained inside the Aurelian walls as you sup on fried gnocchi on a bed of cheese sauce…enough said. 

Supplizio, Centro Storico

A small café of sorts with leather sofas and low communal tables. They serve made-to-order suppli: fried balls of rice with cheese and other fillings. Sample a few mid-afternoon with a glass of wine and probably never rise from the aforementioned leather sofa.  

Drink 

Tazza d'Oro, Pantheon 

The better of two excellent cafes that flank the Pantheon. Imitate the life of a Roman with a milky cappuccino and cornetto (a pastry, not ice cream) consumed at the bar as life mingles around you. 

 

Sant’EustachioCentro Storico 

The lesser of two excellent cafes that flank the Pantheon. Sant’Eustachio has a funky yellow colourway going for it – Wes Andersan eat your heart out. But the vibe, whatever that means, at Tazza d’Oro is better. 

 

Freni e Frizioni, Trastevere

The name means brakes and clutches and the bar sits in an old mechanic’s shop. Crowds spill out onto the square with a strong aperitivo in hand. The mescal selection is impressive. 

 

Ma Che Siete Venuti a Fà, Trastevere 

I will leave you to translate this one. Perhaps ask the bar staff what it means after you’ve ordered from the vast selection of Italian craft beers in a bar the size of a Fiat 500. If the football is on, Lazio naturally, there will be a lot of yelling. 

 

Tram Depot, Testaccio

A bar in a tram on the corner of a park with outdoor seating. The perfect spot for an aperitivo before Pizzeria da Remo. 

Do 

Walk, everywhere

Whether you are emulating Jep Gambardella in La Grande Bellezza or stomping around to pack 10 cultural attractions into 48 hours, do it a piedi, by foot. Rome is a city to be seen from the ground and, although there is a metro, its use is limited as it does not cross under the Centro Storico. Rome is to be discovered and get lost in, something impossible to with a tour guide or in a taxi. Walk everywhere and partake in the leisurely tradition of an afternoon passeggiata. Remember that Italian standards are high and this is not an excuse to wear garish trainers everywhere you go. 

 

MAXXI, Flaminio

Museum of contemporary art in a building designed by Zaha Hadid. A tranquil and decidedly modern antidote to the crowds and ancient ruins of the Centro Storico. 

Galleria Borghese, Tridente

A digestible gallery in the stunning Villa Borghese featuring a line-up of Bernini and Titian. 

 

Giardino degli Aranci, Aventino

The perfect place for a sunset stroll as the sky becomes the colour of your first aperitivo and your stomach starts to grumble for dinner. This might be the best view in the city. 

 

St. Peter’s Basilica and the Vatican City, Vatican

Crowded? Yes. Selfie sticks? Yes. Skip it and go somewhere less touristy? No. It’s busy for a reason. Most people however do the Basilica first and then the Vatican second so if you reverse the order you mitigate some of the crowds. 

 

Terrazza del Gianicolo, Gianicolense 

A contender for the other best view in the city. Loop up here from the South-West side of Trastevere and end up back in the same neighbourhood afterwards. There are stalls at the top where you can grab a beer and watch young Roman lovers amble by. 

 

Galleria Nazionale d'Arte Moderna e Contemporanea, Tridente

A stunningly curated collection of modern Italian art in the Villa Borghese. Like MAXXI, a good spot for when the ruins and ancient history get a bit too much. 

 

Eataly, Ostiense

A kind of Italian equivalent to Whole Foods, although with more reasonable pricing and a focus on produce from across the boot. The cavernous, multi-story warehouse in Ostiense integrates multiple restaurants and cafes into the shopping experience so come to buy produce and gifts for loved ones back home and stay for lunch.

 

Basilica Papale San Paulo Fuori le Mura, Ostiense 

Worth the short metro ride out of the town centre, this church is breath taking and surprisingly empty. You can stroll along it’s long nave in peace as grand oil paintings of each pope throughout history look down on you from above.

 

The Cimitero Acattolico, Piramide

A gentle walk from Testaccio and a good final stop before a drink at Tram Depot and dinner at Pizzeria da Remo. The Protestant Cemetery holds the remains of poets Percy Shelley and John Keats. The latter with the epitaph here lies one whose name was writ in water. 

 

Palazzo della Civilita Italiana, EUR 

A building commissioned by Mussolini for the 1942 World Fair which never took place because of, well, World War Two. It is now the global headquarters of Fendi and a shocking example of rationalist, fascist architecture if you have time for a 30 minute taxi ride out to the oddly deserted EUR district. 

Next Time

Via Appia Antica, Appia Latino 

The Jubilee Church, Tor Tre Teste

Parco della Musica, Flaminio 

La Fondazione Pastificio Cerere, Tiburtino 

Museo dell’Ara Pacis, Centro Storico 

Il Goccetto, Centro Storico 

Assisi, Assisi

MACRO, Nomentano

Santo Palato, Esquilino

 

Hosteria Romana, Centro Storico 

Retrobottega, Centro Storico 

Terme di Caracalla, San Saba  

Trappizino, Testaccio

Borgo Ripa, Trastevere

Seattle

Eat

La Cocina Oaxaqueña, Capitol Hill

The tortilla chips are fried to order, live Mexican football plays on the television and the margaritas put hair on your chest. This spot satisfies both the gourmand and the newbie. Whoever you are, order the Mole Negro Oaxaqueño. 

5 Spot, Queen Anne 

A neighbourhood spot for breakfast and brunch; like a diner but with locally sourced ingredients and filter coffee that doesn’t taste like boiled dirt. Grab a low red booth by the window and discuss whether the hash brown is the best you’ve ever eaten.  

East Anchor Seafood, Madrona

A Fish market with two tables and two bar stools amongst a stream of affluent Seattleites picking up takeaway. We had ahi tuna poke, clam and chorizo stew and fish tacos. Take a walk to Lake Washington after a light lunch and reward yourself with dessert at Cupcake Royale on your return. 

Ballard Sunday Market, Ballard

Teeming with hipsters but worth tolerating for stalls selling produce from foraged mushrooms to fresh-caught salmon. Focus on Taqueria Los Chilangos for breakfast burritos and Vespucci Pizza for well, the pizza. Café Umbria does the best coffee on the market. 

The Athenian, Down Town 

A tourist trap worth getting caught up in. Get their early for breakfast – before 10am – and sit upstairs in a window booth. Watch the ferries

churn across the water as you dine high above Puget Sound.  

Malena’s Taco Shop, Queen Anne

A tiny spot for feel-good Mexican to take back home and eat out of the box. The adobada burrito is the size of well-fed chihuaha. Get an extra tub of their home-made guacamole for your fridge.  

Uwajimaya, Chinatown

An Asian-American supermarket dating back to 1928; in European terms that is equivalent to a store from the Renaissance. Wander their   aisles for the best selection of oriental goods outside of San Francisco. Stop at their food court for a light sushi lunch or a heavier rice and   noodle box. 

Ba Bar, Cherry Hill

I have spent many mornings in Vietnam perched on a plastic chair slurping Pho from a cracked porcelain bowl. I am therefore sceptical of any Vietnamese restaurant in the Occident with a hint of modernity or hygiene standards. Ba Bar is the exception to the rule. 

Sazon Kitchen, Ballard

I will admit that my first meal at Sazon Kitchen was a result of the famed across-the-road Caribbean sandwich spot Un Bien being closed (note to self: check opening times more). It was a welcome turn of events. Sazon Kitchen receives rave reviews for their brunch menu, which I'm sure is good, but I would find it hard to order anything other than the excellent carne asada and shrimp diablo tacos. 

Shiki, Lower Queen Anne

The first time I walked into this neighbourhood Japanese spot, the sushi chef was watching Jeopardy on a TV at the back of the bar while simultaneously flaming a piece of tuna with a blow torch. It was a good sign, Shiki is casual but damn do they know what they're doing. 

Sunfish, West Seattle

Fish and chips after a walk along Alki Beach is close to perfection. The two brothers who run this place aren't interested in being your friends, but with fish that good it doesn't matter. 

Drink 

El Diablo, Queen Anne 

The kind of neighbourhood coffee shop I expect when visiting America. A big blueberry muffin paired with a strong Americano sets your day in the right direction as does reading the paper in their tranquil upstairs lounge. 

Bauhaus Strong Coffee, Ballard

What's not to love about a coffee shop that (a) does indeed serve very strong coffee (b) has a giant portrait of Walter Gropius watching over the seating area. 

 

Optimism Brewing Co., Capitol Hill 

A large industrial spot bustling any day of the week. Optimism brews its libations on site and a tasting flight of six beers comes in at $12-18   dollars. Food trucks pull up in their beer garden on a rotating schedule and there are corn hole boards around the warehouse if you fancy a game.  

 

Jupiter Bar, Beltown

Head through the back bar and you will find a room packed with vintage pinball machines and electronic classic such as Dig Dug. Games   cost 50 cents and it feels like the scene where Scarlett Johansson goes to the arcade in Lost in Translation.  

 

Pine Box, Capitol Hill

The building is from 1923 and it used to be a mortuary. They serve an extensive selection of Washington craft beers on tap which you can   drink on church pews or their outdoor area. The whole place is prone to getting loud on the weekends. 

 

Do

Bill & Melinda Gates Foundation, Seattle Centre

A compact museum on current and past Gates Foundation projects. Go early to avoid school trips and remember, like many Seattle museums, it is shut on a Monday.  

Discovery Park, Magnolia 

Probably Seattle's best park. Although it's much more than that. Walk to West Point Lighthouse along rugged beaches that look out across Puget Sound beyond which, on a clear day, the Olympic Mountains rise. 

Bainbridge Island, Bainbridge

If the weather is good take the 45 minute ferry from downtown Seattle across Puget Sound. In the summer you can rent a bike and tour the island or any time of year you can get coffee and pastries at Blackbird Bakery followed by a walk around the marina. Pick up something to   read by a local Northwest author at the Eagle Harbour book Co.

Frye Art Museum, Downtown

Expect modern exhibits showcasing both local and global talent alongside the intriguing collection of Charles and Emma Frye. The building is light and spacious – especially the café – and entry is free. 

Seattle Art Museum (SAM), Downtown 

The spot for the bigger exhibits in Seattle and an impressive collection from Native American art to American modernists. SAM’s café is good but the Frye’s shop is better.   

Olympic Sculpture Park, Uptown

Part of SAM, this 9 acre park on the waterfront houses a multitude of sculptures. Many recline with the Olympic mountains as background and there is a large Richard Serra piece to get lost in. Looking through Calder’s  during a blood-orange sunset is unforgettable. 

REI, Cascade / Capitol Hill

A mecca of outdoor gear in a city of people who love the outdoors. Get lost in the giant store and leave with your next adventure planned. 

 

Next Time

Vendemmia, Madrona

The Walrus and the Carpenter, Ballard

Manolin, Fremont

Ivar’s Fish Bar, Various Locations

Nassai Terriyaki, Various Locations 

Xi’an Noodles, University District 

Kedai Makan, Capitol Hill 

Cafe Marzocca, Seattle Centre 

Museum of History & Industry (MOHAI), South Lake Union

Burke Museum of Natural History and Culture, University District

Sisters and Brothers,  Lower Queen Anne

Venice

Eat

Antico Forno, San Polo

Decent pizza by the slice in a town not known for the dish (wood fired ovens are banned by the city). Antico Forno serve thick slices with traditional toppings and can be eaten in the store or down by the canal. Make sure to grab a bottle of their house beer. 

Farini, San Polo

Stylish bakery, coffee bar and pizza joint. An easy choice for breakfast, lunch or dinner on the go. Strong Princi vibes (Farini is also present in Milan) and their zucchini and coppa ham pizza is exceptional. 

Bigoi, Dorsoduro

Fast pasta in the university district to take away. Good for a quick stop after visiting the Scuola Grande di San Rocco. 

Pizzeria Ristorante Al Profeta, Dorsoduro

Full of local families eating pizza and pasta in the spacious garden. Prices are economical and it’s a good option after filling up on cicchetti in Dorsoduro. Spaghetti alla Vongole and Spaghetti al Nero di Seppia are the best choices. 

Trattoria Bus alla Torre, Murano

A relaxed spot on the Murano island with tables spilling out onto a quiet square. Seafood starters and pasta mains are the go-to. Polipetti (baby octopus) were an excellent starter followed by Spaghetti alla Telline (wedge clams) and washed down with a carafe of Rosé

Gelato di Natura, Murano

Quality gelato with classic flavours such as amarena (cherry) or more adventurous ones like anguria (watermelon). Perfect after Trattoria Busa alla Torre or the Glass Museum. .  

Osteria al Squero, Dorsoduro

One eats cicchetti (small snacks) at a bacaro (a bar that serves drinks and said small snacks). It’s the best way to enjoy aperitivo hour in Venice as you sample small bites of local food alongside a spritz. You’ll see crowds sitting outside the bar with plastic glasses full of a bubbly orange or red liquid. The orange one is obviously an Aperol spitz and the other is a Campari spritz which is a slightly more bitter, classier version of the drink. Osteria Al Squero is one of the two staple cicchetti bars on a canal in Dorsoduro. Be warned however, the seagulls will want your cicchetti. 

Cantina del Vino gia Schiavi, Dorsoduro

In my opinion, this is the better of the two cicchetti bars on the same canal in Dorsoduro and that’s driven by the broader selection of wine and higher quality of snacks on offer there. On the food, it’s very simple. Most cicchetti are a small slice of bread with a meat, seafood or cheese toppings. One should always try the Baccalà (salt cod) which is a staple but at Cantine del Vino gia Schiavi you can venture far and wide from mascarpone with fish eggs to cuttlefish with samphire and pink peppercorns. This puts a pack of Tyrells at your local pub to shame.  

Al Timon, Cannaregio 

Another fantastic cicchetti spot, this time in the North-West corner of the city on a bustling canal. No spritz available here but their wines by the glass are impressive and they will make a negroni if you ask nicely. Half of their outdoor seating is on a barge docked in the canal.  

Drink 

Barcollo Bar / Bussola, San Polo

Two cheap and young (but not in a fashionable, trendy way) bars in the thick of an otherwise touristy area. They have a big screen showing football that looks onto a square filled with tables where you’ll find Italians drinking mojitos and strawberry daiquiris without shame. 

 

Rosa Salva, San Marco

A dessert and coffee spot on a more relaxing square than Piazza San Marco; somewhere to refresh after the Palazzo Ducale if the tourists are getting a bit much. 

 

Café del Doge, San Polo

Very good coffee paired with pastries from a bakery around the corner. The side alley location is a bit less attractive than the standard canal views elsewhere but Café del Doge is a quarter of the price and where Venetians actually go for breakfast. 

 

Do

Scuola Grande di San Rocco, San Polo

A lay fraternity dedicated to St. Roch (just read the brochure when you’re there) with a notable collection of Tintoretto paintings adorning the grand ceilings and walls.  

Pinault Collection: Palazzo Grassi and Punta della Dogana, San Marco and Dorsoduro

The art collection and rotating exhibits of the venerable collector François Pinault (he founded Kering, which own brands like Gucci and YSL.) One ticket gets you entry to both the collection in Palazzo Grassi and Punta della Dogana, the latter of which is one of Venice’s old custom buildings restored by architect Tadao Ando. 

Palazzo Ducale, San Marco

The must see tourist attraction in Venice. Walking through the courtyard and vast maze of state rooms is the best introduction to the power and politics the city is built upon. The tourists can be overwhelming, but good things come to those who wait - in line. 

Basilica di San Marco, San Marco 

The other must see attraction, although how impressed you are will depend on your opinion of the colour gold and medieval churches. 

Murano Island, Murano

A ten-minute vaporetto (public waterbus) from the main island of Venice is this quiet island famed for its artisanal glass makers. A good idea is to get there for a long lunch on one of the canals (see Trattoria Busa alla Torre above) and then visit the Glass Museum of Murano. 

Traghetto, Everywhere

Quick tip, it will cost you €80-100 euros to have a striped man take out his Apple AirPods and row you around the canals on a gondola. If you can’t stomach that cost, just get a traghetto (same boat, but with a practical purpose) for €2 euros to cross one of the main stretches of canal and save trekking back and forth between bridges. 

 

Next Time

Peggy Guggenheim Collection, Dorsoduro

Palazzo Cavalli-Franchetti, Dorsoduro

Bar all'Arco, San Polo

La Perla ai Bisatai, Murano

Gelateria ca' d'Oro, Cannaregio 

Trattoria Dalla Marisa, Cannaregio

Arte della Pizza, Cannaregio 

Café Noir, San Polo

Margaret DuChamp, Dorsoduro

Enoteca al Volto, San Marco 

Ai Mercanti, San Marco

La Mela Verde, Castello

Local, Castello

Trattoria alla Rampa, Castello

Antiche Carampane, San Polo

La Zucca, Santa Croce

Osteria alla Testiere, Castello